Plantation shutters on casement and crank windows: handles, depth and what to measure

Updated October 22, 2026

The short version: shutters work on casement windows. The window opens outward, away from the shutter, so the only thing to solve is the crank handle and any locks, which sit in the same space the louvers tilt through. Measure to the handle, then either free that space or mount the shutter in front of it.

Why casements are different

A double-hung or slider window keeps its hardware flat against the frame. A casement or awning window opens with a crank, and the handle stands proud of the frame on the room side. The Shutter Store puts it this way: the handles “are often cranks that protrude a few inches out from the glass itself”, and an extended handle “could prevent the shutter frame from fitting inside the recess”^[1]. Lever-style locks add to it, since they “require more depth to lift the lever up and down”^[1].

The good news is the sash. Because a casement swings outward, it never runs into a shutter on the inside, which is not true of a sash that tilts in for cleaning.

What to measure

1. Depth to the glass. From the front edge of the opening back to the glass.
2. Depth to the handle. From the same front edge back to the furthest point of the crank handle, with the handle in the position it rests in when the window is shut. If the handle swings out when you turn it, measure at its furthest point through the turn too.
3. Depth to each lock. Lift the lever fully, as if you were unlocking it, and measure to its furthest point.
4. Where they sit. Note whether the handle is low in the centre, low to one side, or on the side frame, and how far it is from the nearest corner. That tells us which louvers and which part of the frame it might touch.

The shortest of those depths is the one that counts. Put it in the designer’s optional depth field for that window, and describe the handle and locks in its notes. Our measuring guide asks for the same thing on every window: measure back to “the first thing that sticks out: a handle, crank, lock or alarm sensor”.

Four ways to make room

1. A folding or slimmer crank handle

Window makers sell handles for exactly this. Andersen, for one, offers folding handle hardware for its 400 Series casement and awning windows made from 1999 on, and says it can be used for “providing greater clearance for window treatments”^[3]. The Shutter Store suggests “a butterfly or T-style crank, which has a slimmer profile and does not need as much room to rotate”^[1]. Check with your own window’s maker for the right part; handles are made to fit a particular operator.

2. A narrower louver

Wider louvers need more depth to tilt. On our louver table, 4½ in louvers give the widest view but need the most room, and 2½ in louvers the least. On a shallow casement, dropping one size can be the difference. Choosing a louver size

3. Outside mount

An outside mount fixes the frame to the trim or wall around the window, in front of the opening, so the handle stays behind it. The Shutter Store calls outside mount “better suited to tilt-in and crank-out windows”^[2]. It covers the trim, and the frame stands out into the room a little more. Inside vs outside mount

4. A mounting frame

The designer’s mounting frame option is there for shallow or out-of-square openings. If your casement is shallow, tick it for that window and leave a note about the handle; we’ll confirm the layout with you before anything is made.

How much depth each louver needs

A louver turns on pins at its ends, about its middle. Closed, it stands nearly upright; fully open, it lies flat, so half of its width swings toward the glass and half toward the room. That gives a rough figure for how far back it reaches:

Those are geometry, not our build tolerances: the frame and a little clearance come on top, and we check your depth against the actual build before anything is made. The point is the comparison. On a crank window, the handle is effectively the glass, so a louver that clears the glass by a comfortable margin can still meet the handle.

One more thing to check on the panel itself. A tilt rod on the back of the louvers sits on the window side, in the same space as the handle. On a tight casement, a front rod or hidden tilt keeps that space clear.

What the choices cost on one window

Live prices for one 30 × 48 in casement from our price list, in the basic build (flat moulding, paint stage 1, louvers as shown), in US dollars before tax and shipping:

So the cheapest way to make room is usually a smaller louver or a folding handle. An outside mount costs a little more because the shutter is bigger; the 1 in on each side is the minimum The Home Depot’s guide asks for on outside mounts^[4], and you choose how far past the opening you go. The designer prices your own sizes in Canadian dollars too.

Folding handles: what to check before you buy one

• Who made the operator. The crank mechanism inside the window, not the window brand, decides which handle fits. One listing for a Truth Hardware folding handle, for example, says it fits “Truth Hardware® operators utilizing a 5/16" spline”^[5]. Take the old handle with you, or check its maker’s mark.
• What it does. The same listing describes the point of the part as “minimizing interference with blinds, shades, and window coverings”^[5]. It folds flat when you aren’t turning it.
• What it costs. That handle was listed at $24.51 on October 22, 2026^[5]. On a window where it frees the space you need, that’s usually far cheaper than changing the shutter.
• Your window warranty. A handle from the window’s own maker, like Andersen’s folding hardware^[3], is the safest route if the window is still under warranty.

Wide casements and pairs

A wide opening with two or three casement sashes side by side usually has a handle under each one. The designer suggests a panel count from the width, and you can change it:

• 24 in wide: 1 panel
• 48 in wide: 2 panels
• 72 in wide: 4 panels

Count the handles and note where each one sits across the width. What matters day to day is that you can open the panel in front of each handle without folding back the whole set. If a handle falls right where two panels meet, say so in the notes; we may suggest a different split. The designer takes openings from 8 to 144 in wide; past that, contact us.

Awning windows, hinged at the top and cranked outward from the bottom, raise the same questions. Andersen’s folding handle hardware covers both kinds^[3]. The Home Depot’s guide also lists “windows that open into the room” among the obstructions to look for^[4]: a tilt-and-turn window that swings inward is a different case from a casement, and usually points to an outside mount.

If something rubs after you fit them

• The louvers touch the handle when fully open. Tilt them a little less than flat, or fit a folding handle. Don’t force them past it; that marks the paint and strains the pins.
• The panel won’t close flat. Check whether the handle or a lock lever is pushing the panel out. Turn the handle to its resting position and close the lock fully before closing the panel.
• Paint is wearing where the handle meets the louver. That’s contact every time the panel closes. Fix the clearance rather than touching up the paint again.
• Anything else. Stop and contact us with a photo before you plane, cut or bend anything.

Day to day

To open the window, swing the shutter panel back on its hinges, turn the crank, and close the panel again. The louvers can stay tilted open while the window is open, which lets air in without opening up the view. If you crank the window often, note which side the handle is on when you order, so the panel layout can be checked against it.

Before you order

• Measure the depth to the glass, to the handle and to each lock, and enter the shortest.
• Photograph each casement from straight on and from the side, so the handle shows.
• If the handle is the problem, price a folding handle from your window maker before you change your shutter plans.
• If you’re unsure, start a design and leave a note. Design your shutters