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Shutters for older homes: crooked openings, original windows and lead paint

How to measure openings that were never square, when to choose a frame, and what to know about old paint before you drill.

Updated

The short version: older openings are rarely square, so measure more than you think you need to and be ready to choose a frame. Keep the original windows if they’re sound. And before you drill, sand or scrape old trim, assume there could be lead paint underneath.

Why older openings are different

Houses move. Framing dries and shrinks in its first years, foundations settle, and a century of paint builds up on the trim. The National Research Council’s digest on wood shrinkage notes that wood in heated buildings swings between about 6% moisture in winter and 12% in summer, and that framing lumber shrinks as it dries[4]. Over decades that adds up to openings that are a little out of square, a little out of level, and not the same width at the top as at the bottom.

None of that is a reason not to fit shutters. It’s a reason to measure as if you expect it, because you should.

Measure as if it isn’t square

  1. Width three times: at the top, the middle and the bottom of the opening. Write down the smallest.
  2. Height three times: at the left, the centre and the right. Write down the smallest.
  3. Both diagonals, corner to corner. If they differ by more than about ¼ in (6 mm), say so on your order.
  4. Depth, from the front of the opening to the glass, the sash lock or the crank, whichever sticks out most. Older windows often have deep sills and chunky hardware.
  5. The sill: is it flat, or does it slope to shed water? A sloped or rounded sill changes where a shutter can sit.

The full method, with pictures, is on how to measure.

Inside mount or outside mount

An inside mount sits within the opening and shows off the trim around it. It needs an opening that’s close to square and deep enough for the louvers to tilt. An outside mount sits on a frame fixed to the trim or the wall around the window, and it hides an opening that tapers or leans: the frame is square even when the hole isn’t.

Choosing inside or outside mount in an older home
What you findWhat usually works
Diagonals within ¼ in, good depthInside mount
Diagonals more than ¼ in apartOutside mount on a frame
Shallow opening, or a crank or lock in the wayOutside mount, or a narrower louver
Beautiful original casing you want to seeInside mount if it’s close to square, with shims to take up small dips
Arched or shaped topA shaped panel, measured at the tallest point. Arched windows

Keep the windows if you can

The US National Park Service, which publishes the federal government’s guidance on caring for historic buildings, “recommends the retention and repair of original windows whenever possible”, and notes that “Wooden windows which are repaired and properly maintained will have greatly extended service lives”[1]. Its guidance also points out that a repaired historic wood window with a storm window can perform better than a double-glazed metal window without a thermal break[1].

Here’s the thought worth having before you order replacements: interior shutters work with the window you have. They screw into the frame or the casing, take nothing away, and can come out without a trace beyond a few filled holes. In a heritage home or a heritage district, that reversibility is worth a lot.

If the sills are rotten, though, fix them first. The same brief describes water collecting on sills as a major cause of decay, and suggests probing sound-looking wood with an awl, because rot hides under paint[1]. A shutter fixed to a soft sill won’t stay square.

Lead paint: assume it’s there

In the US, the Environmental Protection Agency says “Homes built before 1978 are more likely to have lead-based paint”, and that even small renovation jobs can make enough dust to poison a child[2]. Health Canada says a home “probably contains lead-based paint if it was built before 1960”, and that between 1960 and 1990 the exterior may[3].

Fitting a shutter means a few screw holes, not a renovation. Even so, in an older home:

  • Keep children and pregnant people out of the room while you drill.
  • Hold a damp cloth under each hole to catch the dust, and wipe up with damp cloths rather than sweeping.
  • Don’t sand, scrape or plane painted trim to make a shutter fit. Choose an outside mount or a frame instead.
  • Health Canada advises against sanders, heat guns and blowlamps on lead paint[3]. If you’re doing more than screw holes, the EPA recommends a contractor certified in lead-safe work in pre-1978 homes[2].

What the census says about your city

Each of our city pages shows how many of that city’s homes were built before 1980 (in Canada, in 1980 or earlier), from the US Census Bureau or Statistics Canada. If the share is high where you live, the chances are good that your openings have a story to tell, and worth measuring twice.

Common questions

Can you put shutters on windows that aren’t square?

Yes. Measure the width at the top, middle and bottom and the height at the left, centre and right, and check both diagonals. If the diagonals differ by more than about ¼ in (6 mm), an outside mount on a frame usually looks better than trying to fit inside the opening.

Do shutters suit a period or heritage home?

They’re one of the few window coverings that look like part of the woodwork, and painted to match the trim they read as joinery. Because they screw into the frame or the casing rather than replacing anything, they can come out later without changing the window.

Is it safe to drill into old window trim?

Drilling a few screw holes disturbs very little paint, but in a home built before 1978 in the US, or before 1960 in Canada, assume the trim may have lead paint under newer coats. Keep children and pregnant people out of the room, catch the dust on a damp cloth, and clean up with a damp wipe rather than a broom or a shop vacuum. Don’t sand or scrape old paint to make a shutter fit.

Sources

  1. Preservation Brief 9: The repair of historic wooden windows (John H. Myers, 1981), US National Park Service (government)
  2. Renovation, Repair and Painting Program: consumers, US Environmental Protection Agency (government)
  3. Lead-based paint, Health Canada (government)
  4. Canadian Building Digest 244: Effects of wood shrinkage in buildings (A.T. Hansen, 1987), National Research Council Canada (copy hosted by MIT) (government)

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