Updated
The short version: clean, scuff, prime anything bare or glossy, then two thin coats, with the louvers moved between coats so they don’t glue shut. Take the panels down if you can. It is slow by brush and much quicker with a sprayer. In a home built before 1978 (US) or 1960 (Canada), test old paint for lead before you sand.
Before you start: is it worth repainting?
If the shutters are solid wood and sound, yes. A new colour costs a few cans of paint. Wood can be repainted or restained, though “it takes some work”, as The Shutter Store puts it[5]. Stain is harder to change than paint, because it has soaked into the wood[5]. Going from stained to painted is easy; going from painted back to a natural stain means stripping every louver, which few people finish.
If they are vinyl, think again. The same retailer says repainting its vinyl shutters “is not recommended” because “it is very difficult to get additional paint to adhere properly after production”[5]. That’s a fair reason to replace them. And whatever they’re made of, read your warranty’s terms on the finish before you refinish.
Old paint and lead
Shutters in an older house may be older than you think, and so may their paint. The EPA says “Homes built before 1978 are more likely to have lead-based paint”[6]. Health Canada says a home “probably contains lead-based paint if it was built before 1960”, and warns: “Do not use sanders, heat guns or blowlamps to remove lead-based paint”[7]. Health Canada also says you can send paint chips to a lab for analysis[7]. If the shutters might be original to an older home, test first. If the result is positive, don’t sand; get advice from a lead-safe certified contractor[6].
What you need
- Mild soap, a sponge, and clean water.
- Fine sanding sponges (they bend around louver edges better than sheets).
- A bonding or multi-surface primer, for bare wood, repairs and glossy old paint.
- Interior trim enamel in satin or semi-gloss: harder-wearing and easier to dust than flat paint.
- A quality 2 to 2½ inch nylon/polyester brush, or an HVLP sprayer if you have one.
- Drop cloths, painter’s tape, and a place to lay panels flat for a day or two.
Step by step
- Take the panels down if you can. Many hinged shutters lift off their hinges or have removable hinge pins. Label each panel and its window on a piece of tape so they go back where they came from. Leave the frame on the wall and paint it in place.
- Clean. Sherwin-Williams’ shutter guide says to “give them a good scrub with soap and water, then let them dry completely”[2]. Benjamin Moore finishes trim prep the same way, with a damp sponge and a full dry[1]. Kitchen shutters need a degreaser first; paint won’t hold on cooking film.
- Scuff, don’t strip. Benjamin Moore: “If the existing trim has a high-gloss finish, sand the surface before painting to help it accept the new primer or paint”[1]. On sound paint you only need to dull the shine, not reach bare wood; on rough spots, sand them smooth[2]. Wipe the dust off with a barely damp cloth.
- Prime where it’s needed. Sherwin-Williams recommends primer “for best color coverage, especially when painting untreated wood”[2], and Behr suggests a multi-surface primer “to promote adhesion and durability of your topcoat”[3]. Prime bare wood, filled dents and glossy surfaces. Going dark over white, or white over dark, a tinted primer saves a coat.
- Paint in a set order. With the panel flat and the louvers open, paint the louvers first, one face then the other, then the tilt rod, then the stiles and rails. Brush along each louver, not across it, and pick up the drip that forms on the louver’s lower edge before it sets. Behr’s tip for brush marks: “take a lighter stroke over the newly painted area”[3].
- Move the louvers while the paint is soft. This is the step people miss. Once the paint has started to set but is still soft, tilt the louvers fully open and closed a few times so the paint doesn’t glue them to the frame or to each other. Repeat once more as it firms up. Keep paint out of the tilt rod’s staples and the louver pivots, where it stops them moving freely.
- Second coat. Benjamin Moore says to let the first coat “dry completely” before a second[1]; Sherwin-Williams says to follow the label’s drying time, then add a second coat for proper coverage[2]. Two thin coats look better than one thick one, which sags on louvers.
- Let it cure before rehanging. Paint can be dry to the touch in an hour and still soft enough to stick louvers together for days. Our advice is a day or more, longer in a cool or damp room, then hang the panels and work the louvers gently for the first week.
Brush or sprayer?
The paint makers’ shutter guides use a brush[2][3], and a brush works if you are patient. Our view: on louvers, a sprayer gives the better finish. Every louver has four edges and two faces, and a brush leaves marks and drips on all of them; a fine mist doesn’t. This Old House’s sprayer method is the one to follow: hold the tip about 10 inches from the work, keep it parallel, and overlap each pass by half[4]. Spray outdoors or in a garage, never in the room the shutters came from, and spray the louvers half-open so the mist reaches both faces.
Painting them in place
If the panels can’t come down, you can still brush them where they hang. Mask the window frame, the glass and the wall, lay a drop cloth over the sill, open the louvers halfway, and work top to bottom so drips land on unpainted wood. It takes longer, and the louvers nearest the hinges are awkward to reach. Don’t spray indoors unless you are ready to mask the whole room.
Or start fresh
If the shutters are vinyl, warped, or the wrong size, repainting won’t fix that. Ours are solid poplar, made to your measurements and painted in the colour you choose, or matched to a paint you name. Poplar has long been used for painted moulding and trim because paint goes on smooth and holds, and it can be repainted again when you redecorate. Design your shutters or see what they cost.
Common questions
Can I paint plantation shutters without removing them?
Yes, with a brush, if you mask the window frame, the glass and the wall around it and protect the sill. It is slower than painting panels laid flat, paint runs into louver joints more easily, and you can’t spray indoors without masking the whole room. If the panels lift off their hinges, take them down.
Should I use a brush or a sprayer on louvers?
A sprayer gives the smoother finish on louvers, because a brush leaves marks and puddles at every louver edge. A brush is fine for touch-ups and for a few panels if you take your time; the paint makers’ own shutter guides use a brush.
Can vinyl shutters be repainted?
Not reliably. The Shutter Store, which sells both, says repainting its vinyl shutters is not recommended because paint struggles to adhere after production. Wood can be sanded and repainted as often as you redecorate.
Will repainting affect my warranty?
It can. Read your warranty’s terms on the finish before you refinish, whoever made your shutters, and ask the maker if it isn’t clear.
Sources
- How to paint trim, Benjamin Moore (manufacturer’s own claim)
- How to paint colorful shutters, Sherwin-Williams (manufacturer’s own claim)
- How to paint shutters, Behr (manufacturer’s own claim)
- How to paint vinyl shutters (updated June 2026), This Old House
- Can shutters be repainted or stained? (March 2020), The Shutter Store (retailer’s own claim)
- Renovation, Repair and Painting Program: consumers, US Environmental Protection Agency (government)
- Lead-based paint, Health Canada (government)